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A good read. I admit that I tend to go to number 3 all too often. Fortunately, I’ve only ever really boogered a gun once.
A good read. I admit that I tend to go to number 3 all too often. Fortunately, I’ve only ever really boogered a gun once.
Remember, I do this to entertain me, not you.
Uncle Pays the Bills
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September 25th, 2014 at 11:53 am
I once looked a slight cosmetic ding on the front sight of a revolver I owned, thought about getting out a file to smooth it out, and realized that down that path everything from drilling out the barrel Magnaport style to possibly even engraving was waiting to ambush me.
I touched the ding up with a Sharpie and now it serves as a reminder not to drop the revolver.
September 25th, 2014 at 11:00 pm
I dicked up a Ruger Mk111, sent it them, they fixed it no charge. Turn around one week.
September 27th, 2014 at 2:47 am
Being a gunsmith, I can tell people that there are things that they simply won’t accomplish properly, even if they have the correct tools. There are some jobs where you simply need to have the skills and the manual “feel” calibrated into your hands to get the job done properly.
eg, fitting sights on a 1911 where you need to file in the dovetail to get a sight to drift in. Unless you have the correct tri-corner file, with the correct angles, (with a safe side) *and* you know how to drive a hand file, you’re probably going to make a hash of the job.
The #1 tools I’d recommend anyone have are proper screwdrivers and proper punches for drifting pins in/out. For AR’s, people should get a set of roll pin punches so the punches don’t slip off the roll pins you’re trying to drive into holes. I can’t believe how many people take mechanics screwdrivers to guns and bugger up the screw heads and the surrounding slot and think nothing of it.
The goal of any competent gunsmith is to leave no trace he’s been into your gun – no scratch, no buggered screws, the screws are all back in the holes they came out of, timed to where they started, the finish is left untouched, etc.