Comp-Tac MTAC Review
A mini review. After my bleg, many folks suggested I get the CTAC or MTAC from CompTac. I opted for the MTAC since I don’t always wear a T-Shirt.
Here’s a look at the holster with my ParaUSA in it:
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| From Gun Porn |
Initial impressions were that I really liked. It was comfortable. I could wear a commander-sized 1911 while wearing shorts and a T-Shirt. And I could even tuck my shirt in. So, really dig the holster.
But there was one problem. If I had the holster at the 5 o’clock position and sat down, the magazine would become unseated. Seems as though the holster would come into contact with me and the bit of leather by the magazine release would hit the release. Handy photo to illustrate:
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| From Gun Porn |
I called CompTac and they were very eager to please after I explained the situation. Their customer service was excellent. They said to send it back and they’d send me another. And they did. But I have the same issue. Seems the be how the holster is designed. I still carry with it but in the 3 o’clock position where the magazine ejecting is not a problem. The other option is to try to cut off a little bit of leather right there where the arrow is. But that would screw up the stitching.
Overall, it’s a good, quality holster and is the most comfortable tuckable holster I’ve ever used. But I can’t carry in the 5 o’clock position, which actually does a bit better job concealing than 3 o’clock. If that’s not an issue for you, I heartily recommend the holster.
Update: Based on comments here and my own experience with their customer service, I sent CompTac a link to this post.
Update: here. Turns out, that is not how it is designed.
June 12th, 2009 at 10:25 am
http://www.kramerleather.com/productDetail.cfm?productID=14&categoryID=23
Almost 4 years of daily use, no problems or regrets carrying my custom size CDP.
June 12th, 2009 at 10:36 am
Consider a different solution. Use a little adhesive backed foam rubber to build up the inside of the holster on either side of the mag release.
If it doesn’t interfere with drawing or holstering, it shouldn’t push the 1911 out too far.
Something like Dr. Scholl’s Mole foam might work.
June 12th, 2009 at 10:50 am
I can’t seem to comfortably carry past 4:00. Granted, it’s probably just my holster, but I can’t seem to find anything more comfortable or easier to access than right about at 3:30. When open carrying for competition, it’s 3:00 and nothing else, but with my build and the way I grudgingly wear pants, I have the best concealment with that.
I don’t tuck any more, even though the CTAC works fine for that.
June 12th, 2009 at 10:54 am
After the suggestions came in, I went with the Crossbreed for my compact 1911. It’s very comfortable, and I’ve had no issues with it. Super service, it arrived in the mail 13 calendar days after I ordered.
sv
June 12th, 2009 at 11:36 am
The doc is pondering mechanical items today, and wonders out loud if a little pressed-steel dongle could be made as a low-mod attachment to block the plunger side of the mag release until the grip safety is depressed… nah, modifying the gun is bad mojo.
However, you could write a recommendation to the holster maker to add a little material around the outside plastic panel to ride the back of the mag release. If the plunger can’t emerge, you can’t accidentally drop the mag. Looks like they could just change the mold a bit and pull that radius back on the back of the triggerguard cover and accomplish it. Even if it’s not solid, it may add just enough resistance to the mag release to avoid accidentally pressing it.
June 12th, 2009 at 12:29 pm
I carry a PF-9 in a CrossBreed Super Tuck and had the same problem, the leather backing pushed against the mag release button. I solved this with a rubber washer found in my shop, thinned down, the hole enlarged and one side trimmed off then glued to the leather. It has worked perfectly ever since. From the house I could send you pictures if you like.
June 12th, 2009 at 1:09 pm
And you 1911/Glock guys make fun of the HK mag release. Just switch the release to the other side and use your right hand middle finger to hit the button.
June 12th, 2009 at 1:20 pm
You might want to consider sending this photos to Comp-Tac with the holster for take #2.
I did something similar when I wanted a longer body-side extension for my BHP when I ordered a CTAC, and they obliged, and I had it in almost no extra time.
June 12th, 2009 at 1:26 pm
Based on comments here and my own experience with their customer service, I sent CompTac a link to this post.
June 12th, 2009 at 3:32 pm
Make the holster alteration. Buy a Stitching Awl (or find a sailor with a Sailor’s Palm and heavy needles), use a craft knife to carefully slice away enough leather from the paddle (and grind the metal inside with a Dremel if it comes to that), and re-stitch with the awl and 120# Cuttyhunk fish line (wax it with beeswax). Easy job, shouldn’t take more than an hour.
My dad made every holster he ever used for concealed carry. I still have them, they are well made and have lasted 60 years in some cases. He would cover the pistol in grease, then oilcloth, and mold wet cowhide around it, perforate the margin with a leather punch, and use wet latigo strips for the main stitching, then used his sailor’s palm for heavy linen thread for the small work. He made a holster for a 4″ Woodsman, a 2″ Detective Special and a Walther PP. They are all single, wide belt-loop holsters, and they are very secure and moderately low-profile.
June 12th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
I still vote for the Macdaniel II. Very simple design. On and off in a snap, no pun intended.
http://andrewsleather.com/macdaniel2.htm
Adjustable cant is the best part of the deal.
June 13th, 2009 at 1:58 am
It is easy to rework this if you have the tools — a shrp knife, a stiching awl, a groover and a couple of harness needles, plus some waxed heavy thread.
The thread gets a needle at each end and stiches are essentially knots. The trick is to mark the area to be removed (wide arc clearing the mag release), groove the new stitch line, start 5 or 6 stitches back and overstitch from there and along the new grove, punching the holes with the awl, and at least five or six stitches on past the point where it rejoins the original line; lock by backstitching a few. Then trim the arc of leather out, trim the old stitches flush and dampen and burnish the cut edge.
Leather work is slow but the mechanics are not difficult — the *big* deal is figuring out the right shape and making forms and patterns.