Bleg: Tell me about trailers
Our plan was to keep my truck after we got the new car. Figured we’d join the growing demographic of three car households. And we’d need a truck to pick up mulch and other large items that won’t fit in an SUV or a sedan. But as we went to the local home improvement joint to buy azaleas and holly, I noticed they had decent sized trailers for sale. The Mrs.’ SUV can be fitted with a trailer hitch and it is rated for the same towing capacity as my truck. So, I thought why not sell the truck and pick up a trailer to do the occasional hauling? Doesn’t take gas, lower maintenance costs, and we don’t have to maintain auto insurance coverage for it.
So, tell me about trailers.
March 29th, 2010 at 10:13 am
Back in ’97 I got one of those cheapies from Home Depot to haul my motorcycle to law school. What I got was a frame. I had to also buy a 4×8 sheet of 3/4 plywood to put a deck on it. If you want rails around the sides, you have to build those too out of 2x4s. It folded up pretty small, but make sure you don’t pinch the wires when you unfold it. It was cheap, but it did what I wanted, so I can’t complain. $212 for the trailer and about $25 more in plywood and bolts.
March 29th, 2010 at 10:18 am
Check with Allstate Trailers. I’ve got a handy little 4’x8′ trailer with drive on ramp. Perfect for the mulch, landscaping supplies, lumber etc. Their website has one advertised for about $1,300.
March 29th, 2010 at 10:24 am
Uncle,
On a trailer related issue, make sure you purchase or get one that has a suitable lock near the hitch, or take measures to keep it secure. Trailer theft is huge in East Tennessee.
My friend had a $2,500 roll-on car trailer that some brave asshole just backed up one morning and rolled off with it. KCSD told him that thieves target trailers for a variety of enterprises. My friend wasn’t the sharpest knife in the drawer and didn’t take it seriously.
March 29th, 2010 at 10:28 am
Don’t buy a trailer from your local big box before looking around. On the extreme low-end, you get what you pay for. Trailers for under 300 bucks are out there, but they are not as good as the next step up.
Start with RV centers. Some of them also sell trailers. Look for companies that would fabricate one to order as well. Sometimes you can get a reasonable price there.
The basic trailer will go from the big box to home, but not much farther. It will have 12 inch wheels, and not be too strongly built. You can find these at Harbor Freight, Tractor Supply, etc.
If you think you are ever going to want to haul that piece of furniture 200 miles (to the kids college, the in-laws, whatever) the tires are important too. Most come standard with VERY low grade tires. If you get 14 or 15 inch wheels, then you can find radials – for not a lot more – and they will take highway speeds (up to 55 or 60 – don’t be trying to set records.)
Then do you have dreams of doing anything else – like building a teardrop to go on the trailer? e.g. http://www.nicksteardrop.com/47k.htm
And get a good hitch. You may want to tow other things later – or rent a U-haul for the times you don’t want to drag yours. The RV centers in your area will set you up, but pay attention to what hitch they use and what they charge for install – I had one guy try to sell me on 2 hours install the hitch documentation – available on the web – specified 30 minutes for the vehicle I owned.
March 29th, 2010 at 11:13 am
I got a hefty used 5’x10′ utility trailer rated for over 4000lbs load for $600 from a private roadside deal. It even had a steel diamond-plate floor, plywood sides bolted to steel uprights and tie-down eyes. Tows like a dream behind the SUV.
I still use the little folding trailer 4×8 from Harbor Freight (as mentioned by cliff) a lot – great for small loads of lumber. I towed a car chassis and engine from Florida to Michigan once on it and it did that just fine. I did overload it badly once with a couple dozen sheets of drywall and the tire came off on a slow corner!
March 29th, 2010 at 11:15 am
You do have to get some insurance for it, in most states, but it’s less than a car.
A small flat trailer is nice, and if you have a place that’s appropriate, you can back the trailer up against- say, a garden shed, and use a winch to stand it on end. takes up little space.
Alternately, if you have the real estate to store an enclosed trailer, you can get double or even triple duty out of it. It can act as, yes, a trailer, and also a garden shed, and as a camping vehicle that will haul a HUGE tent and all the comforts of home for tent camping.
Used trailers are all over ebay for very little money.
March 29th, 2010 at 11:24 am
You can always pull more that you can carry. Good advise on all the comments.
Get at least a Class III hitch (2 1/2 inch hole to put the hitch in)
As to trailer, tire size is important. If you get much over a 1 to 2 ration on vehicle to trailer weight you want brakes. If you get really serious you need the pick up as a fith wheel will be called for. You also need to keep in mind if your unit total more that 11,000 pounds gros and you charge some on to haul you will need a CDL.
I have used a S10 blazer to haul a card trailer with a 3/4 ton 4×4 on it. That was a little over the top, but I did what was needed.
Getting a smaller one is not bad…just keep and eye on the wheels.
March 29th, 2010 at 11:24 am
Don’t think you don’t need to insure and license a trailer. It’s not usually covered for collisions or LIABILITY under most car insurance plans. You need stand alone insurance for it or at least a rider on your current plan. If the trucks paid for, and you have space, its silly to sell it. Why spend money to get what you already have?
March 29th, 2010 at 11:27 am
Math. Trailer: $2k. Truck can be sold for $11K. Plus, no maintenance, gas, etc.
March 29th, 2010 at 11:27 am
“Bearing Buddies” #1.)- Trailers have smaller wheels and spin faster than regular tires, so they need more grease more often. You can get ’em at Cabela’s or many other places.
Small wheels #2.) – My buddy Baxter lost a wheel on his motorcycle trailer on the way up to Idaho. It got a flat and by the time that situation “telegraphed” up to the driver, the rubber was totally trashed and the rim f*d. Fortunately (or not) he’s a purebred Florida cracker-redneck and get’s his stuff at Wal-Mart so it’s A.) inexpensive and B.) they got the same stuff everywhere, so C.) he already had two spares and the change-out was relatively easy. (BTW his trailer has the LARGER wheels. It happens anyhow).
#3.) Electric brakes – if you can get ’em they help the trailer stop so it’s not all on your vehicle and the tongue of the trailer, jackknifes can be ugly.
March 29th, 2010 at 12:35 pm
7% state sales tax is paid up on the truck.
I look at that as an investment…makes
me keep vehicles longer. Sell the truck,
lose the 7% you already paid, and pay the
sales tax on whatever trailer stuff you buy.
Yeah, there are lots of consequences to taxes…
March 29th, 2010 at 12:53 pm
Trailer is a minor detail.
The Hitch is the MOST IMPORTANT PART of the rig.
The Electrical Connection is SECOND MOST IMPORTANT.
Ball hitch must be a solid piece that connects securely with SUV frame. If the ball threads to a fixture get one pierced for a cotter pin. If not pierced get lots of LocTite and open ended wrenches that fit. Leave wrenches in back of SUV. Check ball tightness at every fuel stop.
Electrical Connection MUST be water tight. Electrical tape is cheaper than tickets.
And never, ever let the trailer hear you say “We’ll be there by nightfall.” It will make sure you don’t.
Ya, long story behind rant. Maybe over a beer or three.
March 29th, 2010 at 12:58 pm
Trailors are not real expensive, depends on size and style. I have a very small trailor just for utility stuff and I have less than 300 in it. I went ot harbor freight tools and they sell kits. the kit comes with the frame, tongue, axle assymply wheels tires etc. Basicly it is the whole trailor without a deck or side rails. I put mine together in less than an hour. Took a little loger to deck it but it was easy. I used a couple of treated 2x4s and some 5-1/4 deck material, but there are lots of ways you could do it. They have several differant sizes and designs to choose from and they come with all lights and wiring. I would look at those before I bought one it may cheaper to do it as a project. Love mine its great. BUY MORE AMMO
March 29th, 2010 at 2:59 pm
I really really like my folding model. See here:
http://www.softgreenglow.com/wp/?p=7394
As Dirtcrashr notes, on extended trips you will need to regrease. From the SF Bay Area to Seattle takes two regrease sessions.
March 29th, 2010 at 3:04 pm
Like DirtCrash said, trailers, while low maintenance, are not no maintenance.
Even a little crappy one will need the bearings re-greased now and then. And serious ones will need batteries for the brake system, brake maintenance, etc.
The main annoyance with them, compared to keeping your truck, is that they’re a royal bitch to back up, comparatively. And they make maneuvering in general awkward.
But… they sure can move a LOT of stuff.
March 29th, 2010 at 3:20 pm
DavidwhiteWolf — that is the same one I got from Home Depot. It made it from Boston to San Diego without a hitch . . . er . . . problem and iwthout a regrease. For a couple of hundred invested, it did everything I ever asked including hauling a motorcycle across the country and hauling furniture around town. I kept blowing fuses until I realized that I had pinched a wire when I unfolded it.
March 29th, 2010 at 4:12 pm
One additional thought – how often will you use the trailer? You can usually rent a uhaul trailer for $20, so if all you’re doing is hauling off mulch twice a year that might be the more economic option compared to having one sit around all year, worry about tires etc and find out it’s too small the one time you really need it.
March 29th, 2010 at 5:28 pm
I can not support getting rid of the ST…. lol
The trailer we have had sits in the weather (boat gets the garage) and every so often we replace the decking, but all in all it serves it s purpose, but I cannot support a move to sell the truck… but I am biased.
March 29th, 2010 at 7:26 pm
Nice thing about a trailer over a truck is that you don’t HAVE to unload it like a truck. I left my deck materials on it while building the deck without worrying about hauling that stuff all over town when I needed the vehicle. We could also rake leaves during the week and haul it off to compost on Saturday.
My best trailer was built by a guy with a little side business. Tell him what type of hubs you wanted (I specified hubs to match my car) and use the spare from the car when one was needed.
March 29th, 2010 at 7:48 pm
Bearings. Bearing bearings BEARINGS, and involved with that is making sure you pick a trailer with properly sized tires and wheels for what you intend to haul and how fast you intend to haul it. The goobers hauling a 4×8 flat with 12″ tires up the interstate at 75mph are just asking to injure or kill someone when the bearings overheat and seize or worse, separate.
And for god’s sake, CROSS the damn safety chains under the hitch. I’ve been behind way too many backyard rigs with straight chains pinging against the road and spitting up gravel and rocks.
Sorry, sore spot.
Get aquainted with how the vehicle and trailer behave at different balance points too. Tongue weight is critical as well as having the right hitch for the class weight you expect to haul at max.
March 29th, 2010 at 8:34 pm
You’ll probably be a lot happier with a trailer that is big enough to hold a standard-sized sheet of plywood. Many of them are just an inch or two too short, very frustrating.
March 29th, 2010 at 10:28 pm
I just bought, and towed somewhat overloaded 1500 miles cross country; a 28 foot 10,500lb haulmark race trailer.
Best purchase I’ve ever made in my life. It only cost a couple grand more than paying someone else to haul; and now I’ve got a 28 foot race trailer, that I’m converting to a toy hauler (front half of the trailer gets turned into an RV).
For $4k new from Haulmark (or another GOOD trailer manufacturer), you can buy a fully enclosed 6×12, with full ramp, full lights and electric brakes, and 3500lbs capacity; and have FAR more hauling capability than your truck or SUV ever had… and when you don’t need it, it fits into a standard parking spot.
I bought mine with extra D-Rings, upgraded axles and brakes, upgraded LED based lighting, upgraded sealed permanent bearings, and upgraded wheels and tires (and I STILL had two blowouts in 1500 miles).
March 29th, 2010 at 10:30 pm
Minor point, a Class III & IV hitch is a 2″ receiver while a Class V is a 2.5″ receiver. You’re not going to find a Class V for an SUV smaller than an Excursion. My little Harbor Freight 4×8 trailer has made two round trips to Colorado (1,800mi each) and it currently resides at my sister’s place in New York (1,000mi). I did check and repack the bearings before I gave it to my sister.
March 30th, 2010 at 12:39 pm
Good point from Chris (23). Haulmark and Wells Cargo both build really good top-of-the-line trailers, from 6X10, 1000lb boxes up thru 36 foot, 10 ton goose-necks.
I have an 18 foot open car hauler from back when I was young enough to drive in SCCA. The trailer weighs 1200 lb and is rated 4000 lb max (I’ve been up to 5000lb), so 1000 lb load rated tires are good. I do carry a spare, and I grease the bearings about every 2000 miles or so.
Don’t do any kind of serious hauling without proper trailer brakes. They save wear on the tow vehicle, and can be critical when (not if, when) some idiot slams on his brakes right in front of you. Good lighting is equally critical. I’ve made 65 miles with a tool box on the brake pedal of my race car to give me tail lights, but I sweated all the way home. A good hitch lock (both lock to the ball and lock to prevent ball insertion) will make sleeping easier too.
I’ve always used bumper mounted balls, but if I were changing, I’d go to the square receiver type. A two inch ball is fairly standard on medium size trailers. You might also consider air-adjustable shocks and/or booster springs for your tow vehicle if you plan on any seriously heavy loading.
I guess I’ve got something like 20,000 miles total pulling a trailer, mostly behind an F250, and mostly trouble-free. Plan on driving just a little bit slower, and look a lot farther ahead (reaction distance is bunches more!) and check everything at your slightly more frequent fuel and rest stops, and you’ll find it’s a good way to get stuff from here to there.
March 30th, 2010 at 2:42 pm
Uncle, what do you plan on hauling with the trailer (what did you move with the truck), is going to play a role in the trailer to get. I also have a harbor freight folder, which I have had for going on ten years, It has been the best trailer for the money I have owned. I made adapters that fit in the stake beds to haul my sunfish sailboat, use it for snowmobile and single ATV, hauling yard waste to the compost site and it pulls behind the ATV for yard projects. But somtimes a bigger trailer is needed / wanted. I have a 8×10 aluminum snowmobile trailer also which has more space (duck boat or two snowmobiles) but is only rated about 500lbs more (1500 )than the fold up.
Most loads will be well under 1000 lbs so typically the rating is not an issue. also how far you haul loads and how hot the weather on long trips you should consider tire size. the larger (taller) the tire the cooler they will run. short trips (under 100 miles) there really shouldn’t be any problems. further and you may want 12 inch or larger tires.
there was a neat discussion on this forum awhile back check it out. http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2161347/New_trailer_need_some_input#Post2161347