Hypermiling
Here’s a how to. I do whatever the opposite of hypermiling is called.
17 Responses to “Hypermiling”
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September 10th, 2010 at 9:43 am
Hypermilers annoy the hell out of me only because of their erratic acceleration/deceleration they do to milk that one gallon. Totally screws up traffic and i feel it makes for a fairly dangerous situation
September 10th, 2010 at 9:47 am
Yeah, hypermiler is a synonym for idiot who can’t drive.
September 10th, 2010 at 9:50 am
The opposite of hypermiling? Not sure, but I’ve found your Ford Earthfucker.
September 10th, 2010 at 9:55 am
Had a girlfriend once that did that. I don’t think it was her trying to get better gas milage though. She just didn’t realize that the gas pedal had settings other than completely off or fully depressed.
September 10th, 2010 at 10:14 am
I do number 8 religiously, but that’s a habit I got into on my motorcycle because I hate stopping. You have to pay a lot of attention to what is going on around you to make it through town on a motorcycle without touching the ground, and things that keep you alert on a bike are a good survival tactic.
The thing about overinflating the tires is so freaking stupid, and counter productive, that it makes my head hurt. Let’s overinflate the tires to reduce the contact patch, so I wear out the center of my tire faster.
September 10th, 2010 at 11:20 am
I wonder how much that would help me with my GT Mustang… oh well, I make up for not doing any of that by feeding it 92 octane.
September 10th, 2010 at 12:19 pm
I think the opposite is hypomiling.
As for over inflating the tires, I did that once. The power steering pump on my 89 Ford Probe went out so I pumped the tires up to 80 so I could steer. Did that for 6 months until I could afford to replace the car.
September 10th, 2010 at 2:15 pm
Remember, kids… in TN coasting is illegal. TN code 55-8-167, class C misdemeanor…
September 10th, 2010 at 4:50 pm
I do the opposite in my old Merc.
It’s underpowered and slow. So I floor it from a stop (0-60 in 18 makes for not taking your time).
I still get the spec’d 20-22mpg, because the glory of an inefficient engine is that it’s inefficient consistently, all the time.
Pol: That guide suggests “gliding” (engine idle but in gear, aka engine braking), not “coasting”, which TN law defines as the transmission being in neutral or the clutch in.
September 10th, 2010 at 5:44 pm
First line of step 6, Pulse and glide: “Start at 40mph and allow your vehicle to decelerate, in Neutral, to 30mph — this is called the glide. ”
Engine braking, while it will improve your mileage a little over run and brake, will not get you ‘hypermiling’ type results.
September 10th, 2010 at 6:07 pm
>goddamnhippies.jpg
September 10th, 2010 at 6:19 pm
Gliding does not work on new cars. When the ECM in your car senses that the engine is not doing work (in other words, gliding) it stops sending pulses to the fuel injectors, which means they stop opening and injecting fuel: in other words, it shuts the engine down for you. It only begins sending pulses to the injectors again when engine speed drops below idle (in other words, the engine needs to do work again)
September 10th, 2010 at 6:22 pm
Pulse and glide is not “Engine braking”.
The idea is to accelerate at the most efficient RPM range for your engine-tranny-tire combo, so when you do burn fuel, it’s as efficient as possible. Then, when you reach your top speed, you either idle and coast or shut off the engine and coast. When you reach the lower end of your speed you start to accelerate again, but again at the most efficient RPM possible.
Yes, it’s totally annoying in any kind of traffic, but I’d say it’s OK on a lightly loaded interstate at 3 AM in the morning.
I’m not too keen on turning the engine off unless there’s hardware to reliably turn it back on, but a diesel engine wastes very little fuel idling. In fact, sometimes it burns so little fuel that the engine has issues staying up to temperature in cold weather. I think that a pulse-and-glide “cruise control” would be pretty neat to have in a responsible driver’s hands.
September 10th, 2010 at 7:49 pm
’88 Dodge 4wd pickup, big block V-8, my poorman’s version of the “Earthfucker”. Still get 15mpg though, in spite of how I drive. Guess I could lock the hubs, but, then I’d have to get out. I’ll throw a few more beer cans in the bed, see if that will help. It don’t “cruise & glide” very well.
September 10th, 2010 at 9:24 pm
So, in TN it’s illegal to roll with your clutch open or in neutral? You’re supposed to be in gear all the time? Man, I’d never make it there. I hope it’s not like that here, maybe I’d better check, cause I coast a lot.
September 10th, 2010 at 10:01 pm
I always heard that short-shifting is the way to save gas; that is, accelerate with wide-open throttle to just the speed which the engine can just barely handle in the next gear without lugging or pinging. Gasoline engines have better volumetric efficiency with the throttle wide open.
It’s fun to be efficient, and extend the range of your vehicle. It’s fun in a different way, I guess, to be a profligate slob.
September 11th, 2010 at 1:39 am
My favorite is the one where they recommend low resistance tires. LRR tires typically have a shorter lifetime. And considering that modern tires are made from petroleum byproducts (and consume more energy in manufacturing), its not like you’re saving as much gas (or money) as you think you are.
It is interesting to note the number of things that they mention that are quite dangerous: overinflating tires, coasting, wildly varying speeds, blocking your radiator, removing emergency equipment, duct-taping things over your tires, etc. I wonder if they subtract the gas that AAA burns coming out to rescue their ass from their *savings*?